Friday, May 15, 2009

Chanel Crucero 2010

Ayer en la noche se llevó a cabo el desfile de la colección Crucero 2010 de Karl Lagerfeld para Chanel en Venecia, Italia. La colección fue inspirada en los años 30s, en las damas de la alta sociedad veneciana de ese entonces, y las telas se hicieron tomando como referencia el renacimiento, los estampados de Mariano Fortuny y la técnica de grabado del chiaroscuro (que traducido al español sería claroscuro pero que no es lo mismo que el claroscuro por supuesto). En palabras de Lagerfeld, la colección evocaría a la gran Peggy Guggenheim. En mis palabras, me recuerda muchisimo a la película "Muerte en Venecia" y no puedo dejar de pensar que posiblemente fue una de las referencias que tuvo Lagerfeld al crear esta colección.

Mejor manera de abrir la pasarela imposible. Cinco impresionantes mujeres enfundadas en largas capas negras, vistiendo trajes de baño y sombreros del mismo color, a la usanza de los años 30. Fue evidente lo que estaba por venir, y es que era imposible viajar en el tiempo al ver estos atuendos. La genialidad de Lagerfeld se dejó ver desde este momento en las gafas de sol con sujetador de mano en lugar de la tradicional montura para orejas.


Para empezar, claro está, trajes de baño. Aunque no son tan reveladores como la mayoría de los usados actualmente, tampoco son una traducción literal del traje de baño usado en la década de los 30s. Es interesante que el tema de la colección se aprecia totalmente en estos trajes y no por eso dejan de verse actuales. Lagerfeld logró un perfecto balance entre las prendas conservadoras de los 30s y las prendas de hoy en día. Y así podemos apreciar largas capas de playa pero en materiales transparentes o suéteres que cubren todo el talle pero dejando al descubierto las piernas.


Algo muy interesante en esta colección, y que fue algo que generó expectativa desde antes, fue el uso de telas estampadas, algo no tan común en las colecciones de Chanel, y es clara la referencia antes mencionada tanto del renacimiento como del chiaroscuro y las telas de Fortuny. Y la paleta de color no se limita a ciertos tonos sino que abarca desde el negro hasta el blanco pasando por tonos vivos como el rojo y el azul. Es muy interesante también como estas telas fueron usadas ya que hubiera sido muy fácil que el resultado no fuera tan bueno, especialmente en el estampado del último vestido, sin embargo los resultados son excelentes y dejan ver el buen gusto de quien sea que diseñó las telas, que no se si sea Lagerfeld o alguno de los tantos empleados a su cargo.

Dos colores que no pueden faltar en una colección de Chanel son el blanco y el color perla que, contrario a lo que piensa mucha gente, no son el mismo. Este caso no fue la excepción y hubo cambios en los que se uso el color de los pies a la cabeza (o a medio muslo en caso del atuendo en el centro).


Hablando de colores, un color que últimamente se ha vuelto recurrente en las colecciones de Chanel es el rojo. Anteriormente la colección Pre-Otoño 2009 se vió llena de este color y en esta colección regresa una vez más. Se usó en algunos detalles y combinado con otras prendas pero fue usado en su mayoría en atuendos totales y en los más diversos materiales; desde la seda y el encaje hasta el tweed. Alguna vez le preguntaron a Lagerfeld que porque la combinación blanco/negro seguía siendo tan popular después de tantos años y el respondió que "no hay mejor combinación. El negro y el blanco son la base de todos los demás colores", y añadió que "el rojo fuego no es un color que pertenezca a Paris". Y sin embargo es capaz de crear atuendos completamente rojos y hacer que parezcan salidos de un sueño parisino.


Otro par de colores que se pueden apreciar en la colección son el café en distintas tonalidades y el dorado, principalmente en vestidos cortos que harían la delicia de cualquier mujer un tanto atrevida.


Que sería de una colección de Chanel sin una dosis de vestidos negros cortos? Por supuesto que esta no iba a ser la excepción. Simples, sin grandes pretensiones y sin embargo bellos, como solo Lagerfeld los podía hacer.


Y claro, si hay un vestido negro corto hay un vestido negro largo. Así como los cortos, estos son bastante sencillos demostrando asi que la simpleza puede ser sinonimo de belleza y elegancia. El único desacierto que veo es la combinación con las botas de dos de los atuendos, seguramente con otro tipo de zapato el resultado hubiera sido mejor, pero qué importa? Nunca ha sido necesario comprar el combo vestido/zapato y de ninguna manera es una regla vestir la ropa tal y como se presenta en la pasarela (que alguien le pase el chisme a Rihanna por favor).

Si algo ha caracterizado a Chanel a lo largo de los años es la combinación blanco/negro, y en esta ocasión el color predominante del duo fue el blanco, dejando el negro para detalles como vivos o accesorios. Es imposible ver la combinación de estos dos colores y no pensar en Chanel, asi que esta será un combinación que se usará por muchos años más, ya sea para resaltar el atuendo usando uno de los colores en vivos y accesorios o usando la combinación para estampar y tejer las telas que más tarde formaran la prenda, y por supuesto mezclando prendas blancas con negras. Conocen una mejor combinación?


Aunque a veces pareciera que la razón de presentar prendas masculinas es más para deleitar la pupila que por realmente querer proponer algo para hombres, es bueno saber que marcas tan importantes como Chanel no nos olvidan. Definitivamente hay prendas buenas y que serán un éxito pero, a diferencia de lo que pasa con la línea de mujeres (aunque no hay una línea de hombres en sí), Lagerfeld no propone nada nuevo para hombre. Mr. Poper me preguntaba en una entrada anterior el porqué los hombres son tan relegados dentro de la moda, y me parece que es problema tanto de los diseñadores como del público masculino. Es obvio que estas prendas serán un éxito porque es ropa que casi cualquier hombre usaría (aunque no estoy seguro del primer atuendo); no es necesario ser todo un fashionista para comprar una prenda de estas: no hay siluetas ni cortes nuevos, no hay colores estridentes y todo es increiblemente halagador al cuerpo. Por supuesto que el público masculino de Chanel es más un público prepy/adulto que un público de gente audaz y atrevida, y aún así ha habido temporadas en las que Lagerfeld propone nuevos cortes y siluetas para el hombre, pero hasta que los hombres no se atrevan a ponerse cosas innovadoras los diseñadores no podrán vender sus creaciones innovadoras y desafortunadamente se tendrán que limitar a producir ropa para hombres más recatados. También hay que tomar en cuenta que con el cuerpo del hombre no se puede jugar mucho, o acaso imaginan un hombre usando un pantalón con estructura en la cadera para hacer que su cintura se vea pequeña? Yo no. Y me parecen mala idea las faldas de Marc Jacobs. Aún así, las prendas masculinas de esta colección me parecen muy atinadas y reflejan totalmente el estilo que se pretende tener en una colección Crucero.


En general me pareció una colección excelente. Fue mejor, y por mucho, que la colección de Otoño-Invierno 2009/2010. Las pelucas y la ambientación le dieron a la colección un toque de magia y en definitiva fue una vista hacia atrás, hacia la década de 1930 pero con un toque de actualidad y genialidad. Por supuesto, creación de Karl Lagerfeld.


S. Gaspar

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